Los Angeles to Auckland

39 days

No departures scheduled

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Restful sea days are interspersed with exotic ports on this cruise from Los Angeles to Auckland. Wave goodbye to the Hollywood hills and relax onboard with five days at sea, sailing across the South Pacific. Greet the sun-kissed shores of Kahului and Honolulu in Hawaii before mixing more sea days and fascinating ports of call in Polynesia, until we reach the port of Papeete in Tahiti. From there we sail on to Fiji, taking in some of the South Pacific’s sugar-sand beaches, turquoise lagoons and pearly-white atolls. There are stops, too, to hike up Bora Bora’s Mount Otemanu and snorkel amid a kaleidoscope of tropical fish in Rarotonga in the Cook Islands. Fast-forward 24 hours as we cross the dateline, spying humpback whales in Tonga and stopping at Fiji’s port of Lautoka. Next comes Suva, Fiji’s little capital before raising a glass to Champagne Beach in Vanuatu, where we will be welcomed with a traditional water music ceremony. Then we explore New Caledonia and Norfolk Island and stop at the delightful Bay of Islands before reaching our final destination, Auckland.

Itinerary

day 1 | Los Angeles, California

Home of the famous Hollywood sign and Walk of Fame, Los Angeles is the place to visit for anyone interested in film and television and hoping to get a glimpse at some famous actors and artists. Stroll down the Walk and enjoy the glamorous atmosphere and famous surroundings, or take a break on the Santa Monica pier and watch the sun set on the sea.


day 7 | Kahului-Maui, Hawaii

Acquaint yourself with Kahului, on a heavenly Hawaiian island that literally brushes against the sky. Kahului is lush Maui's principal town, enjoying an envied setting of immense natural beauty, cradled between the Valley Isle's twin volcanoes. It's the perfect location for a profound adventure among the island's cloud-wisped mountains, bamboo-framed hiking trails, and thrashing waterfalls. Kahului is a laid-back town and an important transport hub for Hawaii. Its sugar mill museum tells of plantation history, while juicy market stalls bulge below hauls of plump pineapples. Photogenic wild beaches like Kanaha Beach Park unravel along Kahului's coastline, offering turquoise waters glistening with Hawaiian beauty - perfect for kicking back and watching frothing waves unroll. More beaches unspool close by and are home to massive sea turtles who lumber towards the water as the sun climbs into the sky. Or find sandy curves of rusty red and deep black powder, formed by Maui island's sacred volcanoes. The colossal Haleakala shield volcano's crater is famous for otherworldly panoramas of rainbow-streaked terrain and towering cinder cones. Reach its heights to breathe in the crispest air imaginable, and drink in views of bubbling pink and fuchsia sunrises, or the inky-black sky illuminated with galaxies at night. Lush Puʻu Kukui, to the west of the island, is one of the wettest spots on earth, nurturing a densely vibrant land of waterfalls, steep valleys, and towering rock formations.


day 8 | Honolulu, Hawaii

Capital of Hawaii, and a popular tourist destination, Honolulu is known for surfing and water sports. However, there's more to the city than surfing; with museums, the only royal palace in the country, and a mall, there's bound to be something of interest for any visitor.


day 13 | Nuku Hiva Island

Think of French Polynesia and you are automatically transported to the white sands of Tahiti, the blue seas of Bora Bora, or, at the very least, the iconic statues of Easter Island. Now, imagine a place that is home to that majestic trinity, but has no crowds and is full of island authenticity that is rare in these global times. You have just imagined Nuku Hiva. The island is the second largest after Tahiti in the archipelago but is yet to be discovered by tourism. As part of the Marquesas Islands, Nuku Hiva is technically French, but don't expect to find any blue-and-white striped shirts here! In fact, even though French is the “official” language of the island, a sing-song dialect of Tahitian mixed with Marquesan is more widely spoken. The younger generations also speak English. Undeniably, Nuku Hiva has been blessed by the gods. With towering mountains, eight magnificent harbors, and one of the world's highest waterfalls, Nuku Hiva is rich with Mother Nature's jewels. The island could lay claim to a great many claims to fame, such as its deep, unpolluted waters, its lush forests bursting with vitality, or its fascinating assortment of archaeological interests including tikis (sacred statues) and pae pae (stone platforms that formed the foundations of homes). Yet for those in the know, the island's primary claim to fame is that author Herman Melville deserted his ship to live among the natives of the island, and his books Typee and Omoo were inspired by his experiences on Nuku Hiva.


day 14 | Nuku Hiva Island

Think of French Polynesia and you are automatically transported to the white sands of Tahiti, the blue seas of Bora Bora, or, at the very least, the iconic statues of Easter Island. Now, imagine a place that is home to that majestic trinity, but has no crowds and is full of island authenticity that is rare in these global times. You have just imagined Nuku Hiva. The island is the second largest after Tahiti in the archipelago but is yet to be discovered by tourism. As part of the Marquesas Islands, Nuku Hiva is technically French, but don't expect to find any blue-and-white striped shirts here! In fact, even though French is the “official” language of the island, a sing-song dialect of Tahitian mixed with Marquesan is more widely spoken. The younger generations also speak English. Undeniably, Nuku Hiva has been blessed by the gods. With towering mountains, eight magnificent harbors, and one of the world's highest waterfalls, Nuku Hiva is rich with Mother Nature's jewels. The island could lay claim to a great many claims to fame, such as its deep, unpolluted waters, its lush forests bursting with vitality, or its fascinating assortment of archaeological interests including tikis (sacred statues) and pae pae (stone platforms that formed the foundations of homes). Yet for those in the know, the island's primary claim to fame is that author Herman Melville deserted his ship to live among the natives of the island, and his books Typee and Omoo were inspired by his experiences on Nuku Hiva.


day 16 | Fakarava

Arrive at Fakarava, one of the largest atolls in French Polynesia and part of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. This coral atoll is home to many rare species of birds, plants and crustaceans, and you will have the opportunity to snorkel its protected reefs. Spend time exploring Rotoava, the main village on Fakarava. Take a leisurely bike ride, visit a pearl shop or stroll along the turquoise waterfront with a fresh coconut. Dive or snorkel through Fakrarava's Tumakohua Pass, one of the most famous drift dives in the world.


day 17 | Rangiroa

Rangiroa is French Polynesia’s largest atoll. More than 400 motu (islets) enclose the lagoon, which is so wide and long that one cannot see the southern row of motu from the two main islets in the north - hence the local name Rangiroa meaning wide or long sky, sometimes taken as ‘immense sky’. There are several passes from the ocean into the lagoon and the two main villages of Avatoru and Tiputa are located next to the passes of the same names. Drift diving and snorkeling the incoming tides looking for sharks and manta rays at these passes is one of Rangiroa’s main touristic draws. Government jobs, ecotourism and pearl farming are the main sources of income on the atoll. The lagoon’s calm turquoise waters, rich marine underwater world, and relaxed atmosphere attract visitors year-round to the many local guesthouses and a few hotels. Both Avatoru and Tiputa also feature schools for the other Tuamotu Islands which have no higher education possibilities. One of Rangiroa’s most unusual attractions is the white and rose wine produced on the islet immediately west of Avatoru - the wine has won several awards.


day 18 | Moorea

Mo’orea is one of the Society Islands of the French Polynesia. Located in the South Pacific, it is considered a magical island thanks to its majestic volcanic mountains, set against warm lagoon waters and green meadows. It is an island that attracts visitors of all abilities wanting to explore both above and below the ocean waters.


day 18 | Papeete, Tahiti

Papeete will be your gateway to the tropical paradise of French Polynesia, where islands fringed with gorgeous beaches and turquoise ocean await to soothe the soul. This spirited city is the capital of French Polynesia, and serves as a superb base for onward exploration of Tahiti – an island of breathtaking landscapes and oceanic vistas. Wonderful lagoons of crisp, clear water beg to be snorkelled, stunning black beaches and blowholes pay tribute to the island's volcanic heritage, and lush green mountains beckon you inland on adventures, as you explore extraordinary Tahiti. Visit to relax inside picturesque stilted huts, which stand out over shimmering water, as you settle into the intoxicating rhythm of life, in this Polynesian paradise.


day 19 | Papeete, Tahiti

Papeete will be your gateway to the tropical paradise of French Polynesia, where islands fringed with gorgeous beaches and turquoise ocean await to soothe the soul. This spirited city is the capital of French Polynesia, and serves as a superb base for onward exploration of Tahiti – an island of breathtaking landscapes and oceanic vistas. Wonderful lagoons of crisp, clear water beg to be snorkelled, stunning black beaches and blowholes pay tribute to the island's volcanic heritage, and lush green mountains beckon you inland on adventures, as you explore extraordinary Tahiti. Visit to relax inside picturesque stilted huts, which stand out over shimmering water, as you settle into the intoxicating rhythm of life, in this Polynesian paradise.


day 20 | Bora-Bora

Simply saying the name Bora Bora is usually enough to induce gasps of jealousy, as images of milky blue water, sparkling white beaches and casually leaning palm trees immediately spring to mind. The imagination doesn't lie, either, and if you visit, you’ll soon realise this island is every bit as gorgeous as you ever imagined. Thatched wooden huts stand out over shallow, sparkling seawater, with vivid fish swirling just below. Soak up the sun, scuba dive, or simply revel in the opulent luxury of one of the island's many magnificent resorts. If blissful inactivity doesn't appeal, then get active, and hike the greenery of the sharp Mount Pahia.


day 22 | Rarotonga

Life is laid back on Rarotonga, the most populous of the Cook Islands, but the residents are still an active bunch. Though there are plenty of white sandy beaches on which to laze—and people do, with plenty of napping— locals love to get out and move. Join them in snorkeling, diving, riding—bikes, horses, scooters—fishing, bush walking, and playing squash and tennis. Another popular, if odd, and favorite activity is lining up along the sea wall adjacent to the airport's runway to be jetblasted.


day 24 | Crossing the International Date Line


day 25 | Nuku'alofa

Nukualofa is the capital city of the Kingdom of Tonga, a group of islands in the South Pacific. The islands of Tonga are lined with coral reefs and white sand beaches, and are protected by picturesque lagoons and limestone cliffs. Tonga is also one of the very few places in the world where visitors have the opportunity to swim with whales in the tropical ocean waters.


day 27 | Savusavu

Suva, a multiracial city, is the pulsing heart of the South Pacific. Its location is on a hilly peninsula in the southeast corner of Viti Levu Island, the largest in the Fijian archipelago. Suva was named the country's capital in 1882; the former capital was Luvuka. Suva's natural harbour was no doubt a deciding factor that prompted the change. Its port is the country's main shipping facility, accommodating vessels from all over the world. The town is backed by the lush green hills of the Suva-Rewa range. The waterfront district, much of which is built on land reclaimed from tangled mangrove swamps, provides the hub for much of Suva's activities. The downtown centre is a hodgepodge of high-rise office buildings, colonial houses with second-story verandas, parks and government structures. The northern and western mountains catch the trade winds, with the result being damp conditions year-round and frequent tropical downpours. Despite the ever-present possibility of showers, Suva is an excellent place to explore on foot. Many points of interest are located on Victoria Parade and along tree-shaded Queen Elizabeth Drive. Suva's botanical park is lush with flowering plants, trees and green lawns. In its centre stands the Fiji Museum, where objects reflect 3,000 years of Fijian history. The museum boasts a fine collection of Melanesian artefacts and various exhibits that reflect on Fiji's maritime era. Government House stands on a hillside surrounded by landscaped grounds. A stern, uniformed sentry guards the pillared gate entrance. The monthly Changing of the Guard is executed with almost as much pomp and ceremony as at London's Buckingham Palace. Friendly Fiji will charm you; here Melanesia mixes with Polynesia, ancient India with Oceania and tradition with the modern world. The Fijian greeting "Bula!" is extended warmly to strangers on city streets and country roads. Fiji is one of the South Pacific's most hospitable countries and a holiday destination that has much to offer in recreational activities, shopping and joyous celebrations.


day 28 | Lautoka

North of Nadi through sugarcane plantations and past the Sabeto Mountains is Lautoka, nicknamed the Sugar City for the local agriculture and its big processing mill. With a population of around 50,000, it's the only city besides Suva and, like the capital, has a pleasant waterfront. It's the sailing point for Blue Lagoon and Beachcomber Cruises but is otherwise unremarkable for tourists, itself having few hotels and fewer good restaurants. Locals recommend the city as a less-expensive place to shop for clothing, but note that it can take as long as 45 minutes to drive here. Legend has it that Lautoka acquired its name when two chiefs engaged in combat and one hit the other with a spear. He proclaimed "lau toka" (spear hit) and thus the future town was named.


day 29 | Suva

Fiji is a collection of tropical islands in the South Pacific and is well known for soft coral diving, white sandy beaches, and idyllic and peaceful surroundings. Because of its paradisiac surroundings, Fiji is a popular location for weddings and honeymoons. Suva is the capital of the Fiji archipelago, located on the southeastern coast of the island of Viti Levu and is the second most populated city of Fiji.


day 31 | Mystery Island (Inyeug)


day 32 | Port Vila

Vanuatu is an island nation located in the southern Pacific Ocean. The archipelago, which is of volcanic origin, is approximately 1,090 miles (about 1,750 kilometres) east of northern Australia, approximately 310 miles (about 500 kilometres) northeast of New Caledonia, west of Fiji and southeast of the Solomon Islands, near New Guinea. Located on Mélé Bay along the southwest coast of Éfaté, Port Vila is the capital and largest city of Vanuatu, as well as its commercial and economic centre. Although Port Vila's British and French influences are apparent, its multinational population includes ni-Vanuatu, British, French, Chinese, and Vietnamese citizens. An active commercial port, the city is home to hospitals, hotels, casinos, markets and shopping districts, a sports stadium, cultural centre, teacher-training institution, campus of the University of the South Pacific, and several meat- and fish-processing plants. The municipality of Port Vila is divided into four wards, Malapoa-Tagabe, Anabrou-Melcofe-Tassiriki, Centre and South. The area occupied by Port Vila has been inhabited by Melanesian people for thousands of years. In 2004, an archaeological expedition unearthed a burial site with 25 tombs, skeletons and pieces of ceramic pottery dating from 1300 B.C. The Vanuatu Islands first had contact with Europeans in 1606 with the arrival of Portuguese explorer Pedro Fernandes de Queirós. Europeans did not return until 1768, when Louis Antoine de Bougainville rediscovered the islands. In 1774, Captain Cook called the islands the 'New Hebrides', a name that would last until their independence in 1980. In 1825, sandalwood was discovered on the island of Erromango, prompting a rush of immigrants that included Catholic and Protestant missionaries from European and North America, as well as settlers looking for land to farm cotton, coffee, cocoa, bananas, and coconuts. British subjects from Australia made up the majority of settlers, but the establishment of the Caledonian Company of the New Hebrides in 1882 attracted more French subjects. The land around Port Vila was converted into the municipality of Franceville in 1889. By the start of the 20th century, the French outnumbered the British, and the two nations agreed to govern the islands jointly by way of the British-French Condominium. During World War II, Port Vila was an American and Australian airbase. The New Hebrides National Party was established in the early-1970s. Renamed Vanua'aku Pati in 1974, the party pushed for independence. In 1980, amidst the brief Coconut War, the Republic of Vanuatu was created. The economies of Port Vila and Vanuatu are supported by the agriculture, offshore financial services and cattle industries. However, the abundant tropical beauty of Vanuatu has made Port Vila a popular tourist destination for outdoor and nature enthusiasts alike. Renowned for its tropical climate and exquisite, white-sand beaches and world-class fishing, the archipelago is a region of spectacular geographic diversity that includes spectacular volcanoes, mountains and valleys, along with idyllic jungles, rainforests, botanical gardens, mineral springs, and waterfalls. What's more, Port Vila offers easy access to exploring the city, Vanuatu and the offshore islands that comprise this wonderful South Pacific island chain. Port Vila consists of a diverse blend of Melanesian, Eastern and Western cultures that presents a unique opportunity to discover the people, traditions and history of Vanuatu. Cultural village tours are a fantastic way to meet the locals and experience indigenous lifestyles and customs through storytelling, music, dance, kava-tasting, and a traditional Melanesian feast. The evolution of Port Vila and Vanuatu can be explored during visits to the Vanuatu Cultural Centre and Museum features a collection of historical artefacts from the Vanuatu Island. Additional historic landmarks include Independence Park, the French and British residencies, Supreme Court, Georges Pompidou Building, World War I and II memorials, Tanna Coffee-Roasting Factory, and more. Vanuatu's verdant canyons, jungle-covered mountain peaks, volcanoes, waterfalls, botanical gardens, mineral springs, white-sand beaches, and rainforests invite a wide array of picturesque, memorable and exciting sightseeing venues for outdoor enthusiasts. Land-based excursions include bird-watching, bicycling and motor-biking, eco-tours, hiking through jungle and rainforest nature trails, horseback-riding at the nearby Sea Horse Ranch or Club Hippique Adventure Park, helicopter or seaplane flight-seeing, dune-bugging the beaches and jungles, 'zorbing' down the hillsides, abseiling down a cascading waterfall, volcano trekking and sandboarding, zip-lining through the jungle canopy, and golfing at the stunningly beautiful Port Vila Golf and Country Club, the only 18-hole championship course in Vanuatu and home to the PGA-sanctioned Vanuatu Open. Picturesque and fun-filled water-based excursions include swimming, boating and sailing along the exquisite coast of Port Vila and Vanuatu, deep-sea fishing for enormous dolphin, marlin, wahoo, dorado, tuna, swordfish, and sailfish, jet-skiing and high-speed jet-boating, stand-up paddle-boarding, surfing, kite-surfing, and parasailing. The archipelago also offers some of the world's finest snorkelling and diving at venues such as the Hideaway Islands Marine Reserves, JoJo Beach Club, Havannah Beach and Boat Club, and Iririki Island.Due to its compact size, Port Vila can be easily explored in just a single day.


day 33 | Lifou Island

Lifou is a commune of France in the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia. Lifou is made up of two main islands - Lifou Island and Tiga Island- in additional to a number of uninhabited islets. Lifou Isand is the largest atoll in the world. The island is actually made of fossilized coral - known as a makatea. Lifou island does not have any surface water and it relies on a freshwater reservoir accessed by caves. Lifou Island is best known for its vast atoll (the largest in the world). This ring-shaped coral reef affords some of the best snorkelling in the world. Popular activities on this island include scenic walks, relaxing days on the beach, swimming and snorkelling. There are no organized tours being offered during this call to Lifou Island, guests may explore on their own.


day 35 | Norfolk Island

Located in the South Pacific Ocean between Australia and New Zealand, Norfolk Island is a peaceful island destination known for its dramatic coastal scenery, rich history, and relaxed atmosphere. Surrounded by crystal-clear waters and rugged cliffs, the island offers visitors beautiful beaches, scenic walking trails, and stunning ocean viewpoints.

Norfolk Island is home to a fascinating blend of Polynesian and colonial heritage. Visitors can explore the historic settlement of Kingston, a UNESCO World Heritage Site featuring restored buildings, museums, and convict-era ruins that reflect the island’s unique past. The island’s friendly local culture and traditional customs add to its distinctive charm.

Nature lovers can enjoy the island’s lush national parks, towering Norfolk pines, and abundant birdlife. Emily Bay, one of the island’s most popular beaches, offers calm turquoise waters ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and relaxing by the shore. Scenic drives around the island reveal breathtaking coastal panoramas and peaceful countryside landscapes.


day 37 | Bay of Islands

The Tasman Sea on the west and the Pacific Ocean on the east meet at thetop of North Island at Cape Reinga. No matter what route you take, you'll passfarms and forests, marvellous beaches, and great open spaces. The East Coast,up to the Bay of Islands, is Northland's most densely populated, often withrefugees from bigger cities—looking for a more relaxed life—clustered aroundbreathtaking beaches. The first decision on the drive north comes at the footof the Brynderwyn Hills. Turning left will take you up the West Coast throughareas once covered with forests and now used for either agricultural orhorticulture. Driving over "the Brynderwyns," as they are known,takes you to Whangarei, the only city in Northland. If you're in the mood for adiversion, you can slip to the beautiful coastline and take in Waipu Cove, anarea settled by Scots, and Laings Beach, where million-dollar homes sit next tosmall Kiwi beach houses.An hour's drive farther north is the Bay of Islands, known all over theworld for its beauty. There you will find lush forests, splendid beaches, andshimmering harbors. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in 1840 betweenMāoriand the British Crown, establishing the basis for the modern New Zealandstate. Every year on February 6, the extremely beautiful Waitangi Treaty Ground(the name means weeping waters) is the sight of a celebration of the treaty andprotests by Māori unhappy with it. Continuing north on the East Coast, theagricultural backbone of the region is even more evident and a series ofwinding loop roads off the main highway will take you to beaches that are bothbeautiful and isolated where you can swim, dive, picnic, or just laze. .The West Coast is even less populated, and the coastline is rugged andwindswept. In the Waipoua Forest, you will find some of New Zealand's oldestand largest kauri trees; the winding road will also take you past mangroveswamps. Crowning the region is the spiritually significant Cape Reinga, theheadland at the top of the vast stretch of 90 Mile Beach, where it's believedMāori souls depart after death. Today Māori make up roughly a quarter of thearea's population (compared with the national average of about 15%). The legendaryMāori navigator Kupe was said to have landed on the shores of Hokianga Harbour,where the first arrivals made their home. Many different wi (tribes) livedthroughout Northland, including Ngapuhi (the largest), Te Roroa, Ngati Wai,Ngati Kuri, Te Aupouri, Ngaitakoto, Ngati Kahu, and Te Rarawa. Many Māoriherecan trace their ancestry to the earliest inhabitants


day 38 | Auckland

Auckland is called the City of Sails, and visitors flying in will see why. On the East Coast is the Waitemata Harbour—a Māori word meaning sparkling waters—which is bordered by the Hauraki Gulf, an aquatic playground peppered with small islands where many Aucklanders can be found "mucking around in boats."Not surprisingly, Auckland has some 70,000 boats. About one in four households in Auckland has a seacraft of some kind, and there are 102 beaches within an hour's drive; during the week many are quite empty. Even the airport is by the water; it borders the Manukau Harbour, which also takes its name from the Māori language and means solitary bird.According to Māori tradition, the Auckland isthmus was originally peopled by a race of giants and fairy folk. When Europeans arrived in the early 19th century, however, the Ngāti-Whātua tribe was firmly in control of the region. The British began negotiations with the Ngāti-Whātua in 1840 to purchase the isthmus and establish the colony's first capital. In September of that year the British flag was hoisted to mark the township's foundation, and Auckland remained the capital until 1865, when the seat of government was moved to Wellington. Aucklanders expected to suffer from the shift; it hurt their pride but not their pockets. As the terminal for the South Sea shipping routes, Auckland was already an established commercial center. Since then the urban sprawl has made this city of approximately 1.3 million people one of the world's largest geographically.A couple of days in the city will reveal just how developed and sophisticated Auckland is—the Mercer City Survey 2012 saw it ranked as the third-highest city for quality of life—though those seeking a New York in the South Pacific will be disappointed. Auckland is more get-up and go-outside than get-dressed-up and go-out. That said, most shops are open daily, central bars and a few nightclubs buzz well into the wee hours, especially Thursday through Saturday, and a mix of Māori, Pacific people, Asians, and Europeans contributes to the cultural milieu. Auckland has the world's largest single population of Pacific Islanders living outside their home countries, though many of them live outside the central parts of the city and in Manukau to the south. The Samoan language is the second most spoken in New Zealand. Most Pacific people came to New Zealand seeking a better life. When the plentiful, low-skilled work that attracted them dried up, the dream soured, and the population has suffered with poor health and education. Luckily, policies are now addressing that, and change is slowly coming. The Pacifica Festival in March is the region's biggest cultural event, attracting thousands to Western Springs. The annual Pacific Island Secondary Schools’ Competition, also in March, sees young Pacific Islander and Asian students compete in traditional dance, drumming, and singing. This event is open to the public.At the geographical center of Auckland city is the 1,082-foot Sky Tower, a convenient landmark for those exploring on foot and some say a visible sign of the city's naked aspiration. It has earned nicknames like the Needle and the Big Penis—a counterpoint to a poem by acclaimed New Zealand poet James K. Baxter, which refers to Rangitoto Island as a clitoris in the harbor.The Waitemata Harbour has become better known since New Zealand staged its first defense of the America's Cup in 2000 and the successful Louis Vuitton Pacific Series in early 2009. The first regatta saw major redevelopment of the waterfront. The area, where many of the city's most popular bars, cafés, and restaurants are located, is now known as Viaduct Basin or, more commonly, the Viaduct. A recent expansion has created another area, Wynyard Quarter, which is slowly adding restaurants.These days, Auckland is still considered too bold and brash for its own good by many Kiwis who live "south of the Bombay Hills," the geographical divide between Auckland and the rest of New Zealand (barring Northland). "Jafa," an acronym for "just another f—ing Aucklander," has entered the local lexicon; there's even a book out called Way of the Jafa: A Guide to Surviving Auckland and Aucklanders. A common complaint is that Auckland absorbs the wealth from the hard work of the rest of the country. Most Aucklanders, on the other hand, still try to shrug and see it as the parochial envy of those who live in small towns. But these internal identity squabbles aren't your problem. You can enjoy a well-made coffee in almost any café, or take a walk on a beach—knowing that within 30 minutes' driving time you could be cruising the spectacular harbor, playing a round at a public golf course, or even walking in subtropical forest while listening to the song of a native tûî bird.


day 39 | Auckland

Auckland is called the City of Sails, and visitors flying in will see why. On the East Coast is the Waitemata Harbour—a Māori word meaning sparkling waters—which is bordered by the Hauraki Gulf, an aquatic playground peppered with small islands where many Aucklanders can be found "mucking around in boats."Not surprisingly, Auckland has some 70,000 boats. About one in four households in Auckland has a seacraft of some kind, and there are 102 beaches within an hour's drive; during the week many are quite empty. Even the airport is by the water; it borders the Manukau Harbour, which also takes its name from the Māori language and means solitary bird.According to Māori tradition, the Auckland isthmus was originally peopled by a race of giants and fairy folk. When Europeans arrived in the early 19th century, however, the Ngāti-Whātua tribe was firmly in control of the region. The British began negotiations with the Ngāti-Whātua in 1840 to purchase the isthmus and establish the colony's first capital. In September of that year the British flag was hoisted to mark the township's foundation, and Auckland remained the capital until 1865, when the seat of government was moved to Wellington. Aucklanders expected to suffer from the shift; it hurt their pride but not their pockets. As the terminal for the South Sea shipping routes, Auckland was already an established commercial center. Since then the urban sprawl has made this city of approximately 1.3 million people one of the world's largest geographically.A couple of days in the city will reveal just how developed and sophisticated Auckland is—the Mercer City Survey 2012 saw it ranked as the third-highest city for quality of life—though those seeking a New York in the South Pacific will be disappointed. Auckland is more get-up and go-outside than get-dressed-up and go-out. That said, most shops are open daily, central bars and a few nightclubs buzz well into the wee hours, especially Thursday through Saturday, and a mix of Māori, Pacific people, Asians, and Europeans contributes to the cultural milieu. Auckland has the world's largest single population of Pacific Islanders living outside their home countries, though many of them live outside the central parts of the city and in Manukau to the south. The Samoan language is the second most spoken in New Zealand. Most Pacific people came to New Zealand seeking a better life. When the plentiful, low-skilled work that attracted them dried up, the dream soured, and the population has suffered with poor health and education. Luckily, policies are now addressing that, and change is slowly coming. The Pacifica Festival in March is the region's biggest cultural event, attracting thousands to Western Springs. The annual Pacific Island Secondary Schools’ Competition, also in March, sees young Pacific Islander and Asian students compete in traditional dance, drumming, and singing. This event is open to the public.At the geographical center of Auckland city is the 1,082-foot Sky Tower, a convenient landmark for those exploring on foot and some say a visible sign of the city's naked aspiration. It has earned nicknames like the Needle and the Big Penis—a counterpoint to a poem by acclaimed New Zealand poet James K. Baxter, which refers to Rangitoto Island as a clitoris in the harbor.The Waitemata Harbour has become better known since New Zealand staged its first defense of the America's Cup in 2000 and the successful Louis Vuitton Pacific Series in early 2009. The first regatta saw major redevelopment of the waterfront. The area, where many of the city's most popular bars, cafés, and restaurants are located, is now known as Viaduct Basin or, more commonly, the Viaduct. A recent expansion has created another area, Wynyard Quarter, which is slowly adding restaurants.These days, Auckland is still considered too bold and brash for its own good by many Kiwis who live "south of the Bombay Hills," the geographical divide between Auckland and the rest of New Zealand (barring Northland). "Jafa," an acronym for "just another f—ing Aucklander," has entered the local lexicon; there's even a book out called Way of the Jafa: A Guide to Surviving Auckland and Aucklanders. A common complaint is that Auckland absorbs the wealth from the hard work of the rest of the country. Most Aucklanders, on the other hand, still try to shrug and see it as the parochial envy of those who live in small towns. But these internal identity squabbles aren't your problem. You can enjoy a well-made coffee in almost any café, or take a walk on a beach—knowing that within 30 minutes' driving time you could be cruising the spectacular harbor, playing a round at a public golf course, or even walking in subtropical forest while listening to the song of a native tûî bird.


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