Chilean Fjords – Discovering the Heart of Patagonia | Northbound

Buzzing Buenos Aires

Get a taste for Argentina’s capital  

With its fusion of faded European splendor and Latin American panache, an overnight stay in Buenos Aires is the ideal way to start your adventure. Take in the beautiful architecture, such as the opera house of Teatro Colón, the pretty-in-pink Casa Rosada, and the National Museum of Fine Arts, which displays works by Van Gogh, Monet and Picasso.

Explore the colorful street museum in La Boca with its buzzy markets and restaurants. Or take in a tango show before savoring some famed Argentinian beef in one of the city's steakhouses. If you can, why not arrive here early to fully explore the city or join our optional Pre-Programme.

Glamorous and gritty, Buenos Aires is two cities in one. What makes Argentina's capital so fascinating is its dual heritage—part European, part Latin American. Plaza de Mayo resembles a grand square in Madrid, and the ornate Teatro Colón would not be out of place in Vienna. But you’ll know you’re in South America by the leather shoes for sale on cobbled streets and impromptu parades of triumphant soccer fans. Limited-production wines, juicy steaks, and ice cream in countless flavors are among the old-world imports the city has perfected.

Setting sail from Ushuaia

Fly south to Ushuaia and board your ship

You'll have an early start today as we head to the airport for our flight to Ushuaia. With its backdrop of snow-covered mountains, Ushuaia holds the proud, if often-disputed, title of the southernmost city in the world.

MS Roald Amundsen is waiting in port for you. After picking up your expedition jacket and meeting your Expedition Team, settle in and explore the ship before enjoying the first of many delicious meals on board. Your adventure is officially underway.

At 55 degrees latitude south, Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is closer to the South Pole than to Argentina's northern border with Bolivia. It is the capital and tourism base for Tierra del Fuego, the island at the southernmost tip of Argentina.Although its stark physical beauty is striking, Tierra del Fuego's historical allure is based more on its mythical past than on rugged reality. The island was inhabited for 6,000 years by Yámana, Haush, Selk'nam, and Alakaluf Indians. But in 1902 Argentina, eager to populate Patagonia to bolster its territorial claims, moved to initiate an Ushuaian penal colony, establishing the permanent settlement of its most southern territories and, by implication, everything in between.When the prison closed in 1947, Ushuaia had a population of about 3,000, made up mainly of former inmates and prison staff. Today the Indians of Darwin's "missing link" theory are long gone—wiped out by diseases brought by settlers and by indifference to their plight—and the 60,000 residents of Ushuaia are hitching their star to tourism.The city rightly (if perhaps too loudly) promotes itself as the southernmost city in the world (Puerto Williams, a few miles south on the Chilean side of the Beagle Channel, is a small town). You can make your way to the tourism office to get your clichéd, but oh-so-necessary, "Southernmost City in the World" passport stamp. Ushuaia feels like a frontier boomtown, at heart still a rugged, weather-beaten fishing village, but exhibiting the frayed edges of a city that quadrupled in size in the '70s and '80s and just keeps growing. Unpaved portions of Ruta 3, the last stretch of the Pan-American Highway, which connects Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, are finally being paved. The summer months (December through March) draw more than 120,000 visitors, and dozens of cruise ships. The city is trying to extend those visits with events like March's Marathon at the End of the World and by increasing the gamut of winter activities buoyed by the excellent snow conditions.A terrific trail winds through the town up to the Martial Glacier, where a ski lift can help cut down a steep kilometer of your journey. The chaotic and contradictory urban landscape includes a handful of luxury hotels amid the concrete of public housing projects. Scores of "sled houses" (wooden shacks) sit precariously on upright piers, ready for speedy displacement to a different site. But there are also many small, picturesque homes with tiny, carefully tended gardens. Many of the newer homes are built in a Swiss-chalet style, reinforcing the idea that this is a town into which tourism has breathed new life. At the same time, the weather-worn pastel colors that dominate the town's landscape remind you that Ushuaia was once just a tiny fishing village, snuggled at the end of the Earth.As you stand on the banks of the Canal Beagle (Beagle Channel) near Ushuaia, the spirit of the farthest corner of the world takes hold. What stands out is the light: at sundown the landscape is cast in a subdued, sensual tone; everything feels closer, softer, and more human in dimension despite the vastness of the setting. The snowcapped mountains reflect the setting sun back onto a stream rolling into the channel, as nearby peaks echo their image—on a windless day—in the still waters.Above the city rise the last mountains of the Andean Cordillera, and just south and west of Ushuaia they finally vanish into the often-stormy sea. Snow whitens the peaks well into summer. Nature is the principal attraction here, with trekking, fishing, horseback riding, wildlife spotting, and sailing among the most rewarding activities, especially in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (Tierra del Fuego National Park).

Cruise the Beagle Channel and round Cape Horn

Your adventure starts in earnest as we cruise through the Beagle Channel and sail down to the southernmost tip of South America – Cape Horn. The rocky walls of the channel plunge straight into the deep blue icy waters of this wild and remote seascape. Watch out for rare, endemic Peale’s dolphins and other wildlife here.

Cape Horn is where the open waters of the Atlantic and Pacific collide, creating powerful, swirling waves. Rounding the cape would once strike fear into the heart of hardened sailors, but with the benefit of modern instruments, we'll attempt to land – an exploration milestone – and explore the cape … if the conditions cooperate.

Visit a remote paradise 

Soak up the peaceful atmosphere of Puerto Williams, another contender for the world's southernmost city. Drop into the Martin Gusinde Anthropological Museum. Here, you'll find Indigenous Yaghan artifacts, maps, photographs and a traditional canoe. You can also see a replica of the bow of the Yelcho – the ship that rescued Shackleton’s men in 1916.

Hike through the gorgeous scenery, on your own or as part of a guided excursion. You may be able to kayak if the weather is nice. Keen birdwatchers should have their binoculars handy to spot seabirds, including the graceful albatross.

Witness some of Chile's most impressive glaciers 

The goal for the day is a scenic cruise in Garibaldi Fjord within Alberto de Agostini National Park. Here, the Andes tumble into the Pacific and great glaciers calve ice into the beautiful Chilean fjords.

Depending on the conditions, we'll head for glaciers Garibaldi or Pia, some of the most impressive examples in Chile. The fjord is also a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and its rich waters are home to seals, sea lions and many seabirds, including the Andean Con

Through the Magellan Strait & White Narrows

As we sail north along the Chilean coast, join your Expedition Team for fascinating lectures on topics like pre-Columbian history, the geology of our surroundings and the folklore of local communities.

Enjoy the serenity and beauty of the maze of fjords we pass, surrounded by islands, glaciers and steep mountains. And keep an eye out for elephant seals, dolphins and whales, who often swim alongside the ship.

Our resident photographer will be on hand to help you get the most from your wildlife and landscape photography.

The next day, according to the tide, we’ll sail through the White Narrows into Puerto Natales. At less than 330 feet wide in parts, this striking waterway between islets and sheer rock cliffs is only passable in slack water and daylight.

Head out on deck to witness some of the most beautiful landscapes on the continent as your Captain skilfully navigates the ship through these famed channels.

Gateway to Torres del Paine 

Today you’ll awake in Puerto Natales, gateway to the Torres del Paine National Park. The rugged landscape features steppe, forest and desert, punctuated by glaciers and lakes, and you can choose to see it either on a panoramic bus or hiking tour.

Andean animals such as guanacos, rheas and the elusive puma roam here. Look out for Chilean Flamingos as well as the mighty Andean Condor.

Puerto Natales is a popular hub for hikers and adventurers, with many eateries, bars and outdoor shops. Visit the artisan village at Etherh Aike or stroll along the photogenic waterfront.

Explore the soul-stirring Patagonian fjords

According to the tide, we’ll leave Puerto Natales behind and head back through the fabled White Narrows. As we make our way through the maze of the Chilean Fjords, revel in the spine-tingling scenery and join the Expedition Team in the Science Centre.

The next day, tidal conditions allowing, we hope to visit Puerto Edén, an enchanting village only accessible by sea. The 250-strong community here are some of the last remaining members of the Indigenous Kawésqar people, offering a fascinating insight into Patagonian culture.

Alternatively, we’ll spend the day cruising the majestic fjords, drinking in the incredible scenery and spotting wildlife along the way. We may take the opportunity to launch our small expedition boats and explore even closer. Be ready for spontaneous adventures!

Receive a warm welcome in Caleta Tortel

We continue off the well-trodden path to visit isolated Caleta Tortel. Lying at the mouth of Río Baker, Chile's largest river, this charming village is home to just 500 inhabitants.

Instead of streets, a maze of boardwalks connects the close-knit community, spreading over water and around the mountain base. If conditions permit, you'll be able to explore more of the milky blue waters here by kayak.

While exploring the village, you'll come across locals selling handicrafts and you may even be treated to a performance by folk dancers.

Witness unforgettable seascapes

Your expedition cruise continues north through the fabled waters of Patagonia. The seas here are captivating, with a whole palette of shades of blue, from the brightest aquamarine to the deepest midnight hues.

As we sail, there's a good chance you’ll see whales, seabirds, seals and more. Take in the scenery from the panoramic sauna or on-deck hot tubs and infinity pool, enjoy the onboard cuisine, or relax in the Explorer Lounge & Bar.

Your Expedition Team will be on hand with fascinating lectures on local history and wildlife, and our onboard photographer can help with tips on expedition photography.

Stilt houses and historic churches

Set amidst the lush greenery of Chiloé Island, Castro is Chile’s third oldest city. It’s also home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites – Iglesia San Francisco and Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Gracia de Nercón. The former is one of the oldest colonial era buildings in the country and has survived 15 major earthquakes.

Keep your camera ready for views of the city’s colorful palafitos – stilt houses along the waterfront. For an insight into local culture, head to the Museo Regional de Castro and Modern Art Museum.

Explore Spanish fortresses and lively markets

We go ashore at the pretty seaside town of Niebla, set on a picturesque peninsula with views of Corral Bay on one side and the Valdivia River on the other. Take a stroll on the wide sandy beach and, if the Feria Costumbrista market is open, sample traditional empanadas, anticuchos and churros.

Aside from the town itself, the ruins of the old Spanish fort and its associated museum are well worth a visit. Learn more about the region's history at the museum, then wander around the lighthouse. You'll enjoy beautiful views across the river and bay.

Wildlife spotting at sea

Your expedition cruise continues along the Pacific coast to Valparaíso, our final stop. Now, as our journey nears its end, take some time to reflect on the experiences you’ve had so far. Perhaps you’ve met some kindred spirits along the way, and maybe you’re even thinking ahead to your next adventure.

There will be a chance to enjoy a recap of our shared experiences in Patagonia and the fjords from our Expedition Team. And seeing as you’re at sea, you may as well take full advantage of all the great onboard facilities the ship offers – and enjoy a final fantastic evening meal.

A great place to end your expedition cruise

Your South American expedition cruise ends in Valparaíso, the 'Jewel of the Pacific'. Built on steep hillsides overlooking the ocean, it's well worth spending time in this UNESCO-listed city before you fly home.

Filled with attractions, the city is an exhilarating maze of winding alleyways and barrios, colourful houses, and mercados packed with local produce. Why not take it all in on a funicular ride up to Cerro Alegre and Concepción.

Although your cruise has come to an end, the adventure doesn’t have to stop there. Why not consider joining our optional Post-Programmes.