Alaska Escape: LeConte Bay, Wrangell and Misty Fjords

Ketchikan is famous for its colorful totem poles, rainy skies, steep–as–San Francisco streets, and lush island setting. Some 13,500 people call the town home, and, in the summer, cruise ships crowd the shoreline, floatplanes depart noisily for Misty Fiords National Monument, and salmon-laden commercial fishing boats motor through Tongass Narrows. In the last decade Ketchikan's rowdy, blue-collar heritage of logging and fishing has been softened by the loss of many timber-industry jobs and the dramatic rise of cruise-ship tourism. With some effort, though, visitors can still glimpse the rugged frontier spirit that once permeated this hardscrabble cannery town. Art lovers should make a beeline for Ketchikan: the arts community here is very active. Travelers in search of the perfect piece of Alaska art will find an incredible range of pieces to choose from.The town is at the foot of 3,000-foot Deer Mountain, near the southeastern corner of Revillagigedo (locals shorten it to Revilla) Island. Prior to the arrival of white miners and fishermen in 1885, the Tlingit used the site at the mouth of Ketchikan Creek as a summer fish camp. Gold discoveries just before the turn of the 20th century brought more immigrants, and valuable timber and commercial fishing resources spurred new industries. By the 1930s the town bragged that it was the "salmon-canning capital of the world." You will still find some of Southeast's best salmon fishing around here. Ketchikan is the first bite of Alaska that many travelers taste. Despite its imposing backdrop, hillside homes, and many staircases, the town is relatively easy to walk through. Favorite downtown stops include the Spruce Mill Development shops and Creek Street. A bit farther away you'll find the Totem Heritage Center. Out of town (but included on most bus tours) are two longtime favorites: Totem Bight State Historical Park to the north and Saxman Totem Park to the south.

Wake up this morning to catch the sunrise over the stunning cliffs of Misty Fjords National Monument, rising more than 2,000 feet above the deep blue waters of the fjord. Watch wisps of cloud drift down the winding waterway and drape over green peaks as you cruise through the mists that give this extraordinary landscape its name. Set out by Zodiac and kayak to get close to the forested banks and the many dramatic waterfalls cascading down the cliffs.

Rudyerd Bay is one of the highlights of the Misty Fiords, 40 miles east of Ketchikan, along the Inside Passage. This fjord cuts through steep-sided mountainous terrain and extends far into the mainland. The scenery is stunning, with dramatic thousand-foot waterfalls plunging down rainforest covered cliffs to the water below.

This morning, arrive in the small town of Wrangell. The Tlingit and their ancestors have made this island their home for thousands of years. Take an optional jet boat journey up the Stikine River or explore town, including a visit to Chief Shakes Tribal House and Petroglyph Beach, home to ancient rock carvings. This afternoon, cruise the Eastern Passage and Blake Channel, narrow waterways on the backside of Wrangell Island where other ships rarely venture.

On select departures, choose an optional day trip to Anan Creek Bear Observatory to witness black and brown bears feasting on salmon runs (additional $390 per person). Speak with your expedition specialist for details.

A small, unassuming timber and fishing community, Wrangel sits on the northern tip of Wrangel Island, near the mouth of the fast-flowing Stikine River—North America's largest undammed river. The Stikine plays a large role in the life of many Wrangel residents, including those who grew up homesteading on the islands that pepper the area. Trips on the river with local guides are highly recommended as they provide, basically, an insider's guide to the Stikine and a very Alaskan way of life. Like much of Southeast, Wrangel has suffered in recent years from a declining resource-based economy. But locals are working to build tourism in the town. Bearfest, which started in 2010, celebrates Wrangel's proximity to Anan Creek, where you can get a close-up view of both brown and black bears. Wrangel has flown three different national flags in its time. Russia established Redoubt St. Dionysius here in 1834. Five years later Great Britain's Hudson's Bay Company leased the southern Alaska coastline, renaming the settlement Ft. Stikine. It was rechristened Wrangel when the Americans took over in 1867; the name came from Baron Ferdinand Petrovich von Wrangel, governor of the Russian-American Company. The rough-around-the-edges town is off the track of the larger cruise ships, so it does not get the same seasonal traffic that Ketchikan and Juneau do. Hence, it is nearly devoid of the souvenir shops that dominate so many other nearby downtown areas. But the gift shops and art galleries that are here do sell locally created work, and the town is very welcoming to visitors; independent travelers would do well to add a stop in Wrangel during their Southeast wanderings.

Navigate the stunning Wrangell Narrows, an area inaccessible to larger ships, and then cruise into the Sumner Strait, keeping watch for orcas and humpback whales surfacing and sea otters gliding through the clear water around the ship. Explore the coast by kayak or Zodiac and go ashore to trace bear trails through forests intersected by crystalline salmon streams. Along the way, learn about the rainforest ecosystem from naturalists. Fix your binoculars on the banks to search for Sitka black-tailed deer and moose as well as black bears, wolves and bald eagles that frequent the shoreline in search of plentiful salmon.

On your first day of exploration, you'll explore either LeConte Bay or Tracy Arm. These areas feature some of the most active glaciers in Southeast Alaska. Icebergs regularly break off from glaciers, getting caught in shallow moraines and along the shorelines as they float out of the bay. Your experienced captain will evaluate the underwater moraine outside of LeConte Bay or Tracy Arm, where you'll set out by Zodiac to navigate among these surreal floating sculptures. Take advantage of spectacular photographic opportunities, practicing tricks and tips from your certified photo instructor.

LeConte Glacier in Alaska is a breathtaking tidewater glacier, famous for its striking blue ice and dramatic calving events that send icebergs into the surrounding waters. Nestled in the Tongass National Forest, it’s one of the few glaciers in North America that flows directly into the sea, creating a dynamic and photogenic landscape. Visitors are often mesmerized by the sheer scale, icy beauty, and the echoing sounds of cracking ice in this pristine wilderness.

Juneau, Alaska's capital and third-largest city, is on the North American mainland but can't be reached by road. Bounded by steep mountains and water, the city’s geographic isolation and compact size make it much more akin to an island community such as Sitka than to other Alaskan urban centers, such as Fairbanks or Anchorage. Juneau is full of contrasts. Its dramatic hillside location and historic downtown buildings provide a frontier feeling, but the city's cosmopolitan nature comes through in fine museums, noteworthy restaurants, and a literate and outdoorsy populace. The finest of the museums, the Alaska State Museum, is scheduled to reopen in May 2016 on its old site as the expanded Alaska State Library, Archives, and Museum (SLAM) following several years of planning and exhibit research. Another new facility, the Walter Soboleff Center, offers visitors a chance to learn about the indigenous cultures of Southeast Alaska–-Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian. Other highlights include the Mt. Roberts Tramway, plenty of densely forested wilderness areas, quiet bays for sea kayaking, and even a famous drive-up glacier, Mendenhall Glacier. For goings-on, pick up the Juneau Empire (www.juneauempire.com), which keeps tabs on state politics, business, sports, and local news.