Fall Foliage on the St. Lawrence: Québec to the Canadian Maritimes – with Smithsonian Journeys

Embark your ship and settle into your stateroom. Toronto is beloved by many as one of Canada’s boldest and most innovative capitals. Hugging the shores of Lake Ontario and facing the picturesque Toronto Islands, it was founded by British loyalists fleeing the American Revolution in 1793. Today the city is a pleasure to explore on foot, whether strolling past the Victorian bay-and-gable homes of Rosedale, or the historic enclave of Wychwood Park, an Ontario Heritage Conservation district. The city’s Distillery District is home to North America’s largest preserved collection of Victorian industrial architecture.

Canada's most diverse metropolis, Montréal, is an island city that favors style and elegance over order or even prosperity, a city where past and present intrude on each other daily. In some ways it resembles Vienna—well past its peak of power and glory, perhaps, yet still vibrant and grand.But don't get the wrong idea. Montréal has always had a bit of an edge. During Prohibition, thirsty Americans headed north to the city on the St. Lawrence for booze, music, and a good time, and people still come for the same things. Summer festivals celebrate everything from comedy and French music and culture to beer and fireworks, and, of course, jazz. And on those rare weeks when there isn't a planned event, the party continues. Clubs and sidewalk cafés are abuzz from late afternoon to the early hours of the morning. And Montréal is a city that knows how to mix it up even when it's 20 below zero. Rue St-Denis is almost as lively on a Saturday night in January as it is in July, and the festival Montréal en Lumière, or Montréal Highlights, enlivens the dreary days of February with concerts, balls, and fine food.Montréal takes its name from Parc du Mont-Royal, a stubby plug of tree-covered igneous rock that rises 764 feet above the surrounding cityscape. Although its height is unimpressive, "the Mountain" forms one of Canada's finest urban parks, and views from the Chalet du Mont-Royal atop the hill provide an excellent orientation to the city's layout and major landmarks.Old Montréal is home to museums, the municipal government, and the magnificent Basilique Notre-Dame-de-Montréal within its network of narrow, cobblestone streets. Although Montréal's centre-ville, or Downtown, bustles like many other major cities on the surface, it's active below street level as well, in the so-called Underground City–-the underground levels of shopping malls and food courts connected by pedestrian tunnels and the city's subway system, or métro. Residential Plateau Mont-Royal and trendy neighborhoods are abuzz with restaurants, nightclubs, art galleries, and cafés. The greener areas of town are composed of the Parc du Mont-Royal and the Jardin Botanique.

Quebec City is by many accounts the most French city in New France. The Old Town’s centerpiece, the magnificent Château Frontenac, seems transported from the palatial landscapes of the Loire Valley, and its French-accented streets lead past white-stone buildings that evoke old-world medieval villages. The only remaining walled city in North America outside of Mexico, Quebec City was fortified in the 17th century soon after its founding in 1608. Its strategic setting on the rocky promontory of Cape Diamond gave troops a close view of the St. Lawrence.

Tadoussac is a small village in the Côte-Nord that sits at the confluence of the St. Lawrence River and the Saguenay Fjord. Established as an important trading post by French explorers in 1599, Tadoussac still retains its rural charms to this day. Surrounded by the rugged natural beauty of the fjord, it is close to several natural and provincial parks, as well as Canada’s first maritime national park. A dozen whale species, such as minke, humpback, fins and blue whales, frequent the waters of Tadoussac Bay during the summer months, while beluga whales live here year-round.

Designated as the Island capital in 1765, Charlottetown is both PEI’s oldest and largest urban center. However, since the whole "metropolitan" area only has a population of about 65,000, a pleasing small-town atmosphere remains. The city is a winner appearance-wise as well. Peppered with gingerbread-clad homes, converted warehouses, striking churches, and monumental government buildings, Charlottetown’s core seems relatively unchanged from its 19th-century heyday when it hosted the conference that led to the formation of Canada. The city is understandably proud of its role as the "Birthplace of Confederation" and, in summer, downtown streets are dotted with people dressed as personages from the past who’ll regale you with tales about the Confederation debate.

The village of Cap-aux-Meules—or Grindstone Cape—was named for the headland on Grindstone, one of Quebec’s 13 Magdalen Islands. Its French moniker, rarely used in English, is nonetheless its official name. This is the second largest of the Magdalens by area, a low-lying expanse ringed by rugged shores that was inhabited by the Mi’kmaq tribe when they came on a seasonal walrus hunt. The first European to step on this land was Jacques Cartier in 1534. Today, some islanders are descendants of shipwreck survivors and live in houses built out of wood retrieved from the waters.

The largest city on Cape Breton Island, Sydney is located along the southeastern arm of Sydney Harbour, at the mouth of its eponymous river. Founded in 1785 by the British and loyalists fleeing from the US following the American Revolution, Sydney was the capital of the island until 1820, when the colony of Cape Breton merged with Nova Scotia. The region’s coal mines drew many immigrants during the 19th century; by the early 20th century, Sydney had also become one of the world’s largest steel producing centers. Today, it is Nova Scotia’s second largest industrial complex.

Nova Scotia’s coast still retains much of its unspoiled natural beauty. Rolling hills and boreal forests stretch to coastal cliffs that steeply drop to rugged shores dotted with sheltered bays and sea caves. The site of the first permanent European settlement north of Florida in the New World, it is rich in maritime heritage. The city of Lunenburg was once a busy shipbuilding center. Its historic Old Town is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site, considered the best surviving example of planned British colonial settlement in North America.

There’s history and culture around every bend in Boston—skyscrapers nestle next to historic hotels while modern marketplaces line the antique cobblestone streets. But to Bostonians, living in a city that blends yesterday and today is just another day in beloved Beantown.