Edinburgh to Reykjavik

Edinburgh is to London as poetry is to prose, as Charlotte Bronte once wrote. One of the world's stateliest cities and proudest capitals, it's built - like Rome - on seven hills, making it a striking backdrop for the ancient pageant of history. In a skyline of sheer drama, Edinburgh Castle watches over the capital city, frowning down on Princes Street's glamour and glitz. But despite its rich past, the city's famous festivals, excellent museums and galleries, as well as the modern Scottish Parliament, are reminders that Edinburgh has its feet firmly in the 21st century. Nearly everywhere in Edinburgh (the burgh is always pronounced burra in Scotland) there are spectacular buildings, whose Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian pillars add touches of neoclassical grandeur to the largely Presbyterian backdrop. Large gardens are a strong feature of central Edinburgh, where the city council is one of the most stridently conservationist in Europe. Arthur's Seat, a mountain of bright green and yellow furze, rears up behind the spires of the Old Town. This child-size mountain jutting 822 feet above its surroundings has steep slopes and little crags like a miniature Highlands set down in the middle of the busy city. Appropriately, these theatrical elements match Edinburgh's character - after all, the city has been a stage that has seen its fair share of romance, violence, tragedy, and triumph. Modern Edinburgh has become a cultural capital, staging the Edinburgh International Festival and the Fringe Festival in every possible venue each August. The stunning Museum of Scotland complements the city's wealth of galleries and artsy hangouts. Add Edinburgh's growing reputation for food and nightlife and you have one of the world's most beguiling cities. Today the city is the second most important financial center in the United Kingdom, and the fifth most important in Europe. The city regularly is ranked near the top in quality-of-life surveys. Accordingly, New Town apartments on fashionable streets sell for considerable sums. In some senses, the city is showy and materialistic, but Edinburgh still supports learned societies, some of which have their roots in the Scottish Enlightenment. The Royal Society of Edinburgh, for example, established in 1783 "for the advancement of learning and useful knowledge," remains an important forum for interdisciplinary activities. Even as Edinburgh moves through the 21st century, its tall guardian castle remains the focal point of the city and its venerable history. Take time to explore the streets - peopled by the spirits of Mary, Queen of Scots; Sir Walter Scott; and Robert Louis Stevenson - and pay your respects to the world's best-loved terrier, Greyfriars Bobby. In the evenings you can enjoy candlelit restaurants or a folk ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee, a traditional Scottish dance with music), though you should remember that you haven't earned your porridge until you've climbed Arthur's Seat. Should you wander around a corner, say, on George Street, you might see not an endless cityscape, but blue sea and a patchwork of fields. This is the county of Fife, beyond the inlet of the North Sea called the Firth of Forth - a reminder, like the mountains to the northwest that can be glimpsed from Edinburgh's highest points, that the rest of Scotland lies within easy reach.

The Isle of May in Scotland is owned and managed by Scottish Natural Heritage as a National Nature Reserve and is an important breeding ground for approximately one-quarter of a million seabirds. In fact, over 40,000 puffin burrows have been counted as occupied. Not only kittiwakes, shags, eiders, and guillemots but also Razorbills, Arctic Terns, Sandwich Terns, Common Terns, Lesser Gulls, Herring Gulls, and Great Black-backed Gulls nest here. The island is located roughly four nautical miles off the coast of mainland Scotland and is used by biologists for surveying migrating passerines and for ringing breeding seabirds to better study their movements and breeding success. While hosting an impressive array and quantity of seabirds, the island itself is small at only 1.8 kilometers (1.1 miles) long, and less than half a kilometer (one-third of a mile) wide.

In bustling Kirkwall, the main town on Orkney, there's plenty to see in the narrow, winding streets extending from the harbor. The cathedral and some museums are highlights.

Lying mid-way between Shetland and the Orkney islands, Fair Isle is a tiny jewel in the sea. Famous for birds, knitwear and historic shipwrecks, the island offers a warm and friendly welcome to visitors. With a population of only around 70 people this island is truly a beautiful setting and is one of Britain’s most successful communities. View the cloudy light turquoise water as it drifts out to sea beneath the breathtaking Sheep Rock, rising over 100 meters, which is almost an isle of its own. Fair Isle’s oceanic climate brings stormy but mild winters, in summer, you can expect rapid changes in the weather, sparkling sunshine can be followed by a thick blanket of mist and fog, and this makes the isle a truly inspiring area. Over the centuries the island has changed hands many times and was named the island of peace by Norse settlers. The isle has been a useful landmark for shipping but in storms and fog it is highly dangerous creating over 100 known shipwrecks such as the Spanish armada flag ship “El Gran Grifon”.

Founded by Dutch fishermen in the 17th century, Lerwick today is a busy town and administrative center. Handsome stone buildings—known as lodberries—line the harbor; they provided loading bays for goods, some of them illegal. The town's twisting flagstone lanes and harbor once heaved with activity, and Lerwick is still an active port today. This is also where most visitors to Shetland dock, spilling out of cruise ships, allowing passengers to walk around the town.

Exploring the sandstone cliff faces of the Isle of Noss will reveal ledges loaded with gannets, puffins, guillemots, shags, kittiwakes, Razorbills, fulmars and Great Skuas. The island was recognized as a National Nature Reserve in 1955, and has one of Europe’s largest and most diverse seabird colonies. Sheep have grazed the inland hillsides of Noss since the late 1800s and early 1900s when around twenty people lived on the island to manage the sheep farm. Along with the sheep, shaggy Shetland ponies graze the windblown slopes of Noss.

Oyndarfjørður distills the essence of the Faroe Islands into one small village - dramatic landscapes, ancient stories, and glorious panoramic views. Local folklore bubbles to the surface at the Rinkusteinar, or Rocking Stones - massive boulders that eerily bob back and forth in the water, creating a mysterious spectacle. Islanders say they are the remains of two pirate ships, frozen in place by a sorceress’s spell. Until 1969, the village was disconnected from the outside world, with no road network, preserving centuries-old traditions and allowing myth and legend to flourish. One such tale is the local legend of Páll Fangi, a seventeenth-century outlaw who hid in caves beneath Nestindur peak for an entire year after escaping prison multiple times. A small cluster of wooden buildings dots Oyndarfjørður, including the charming wooden church built in 1838. Set against a spectacular backdrop of shimmering fjord waters and sharp mountain peaks - among them Slættaratindur, the Faroe Islands’ highest summit - the village offers breathtaking views accompanied by the gentle gurgling of a nearby stream. Scenic hikes lead into the mountains, revealing panoramas of hanging valleys and dramatic peaks, or linking Oyndarfjørður with the neighboring villages of Hellurnar and Elduvík. This perfect isolation draws visitors who want to witness the quiet majesty and grandeur of this northern landscape and traditions of authentic Faroese culture.

The natural world is at its most playful and creative here on Sorvagur and the Faroe Islands, forming striking rock scenery and surreal spectacles such as the floating lake. Sorvagsvatn - the deepest and largest lake on the islands - appears suspended high above the cliffs and Atlantic below, forming the most immense infinity pool you’ll ever lay eyes on. One of the oldest villages on Vagar, the Faroe Islands’ third biggest island, Sorvagur was built on the site of an ancient Viking settlement. At the mouth of the Sorvagfjordur, a pair of iconic rock formations rise from the waves. These grassy sea stacks of monumental grandeur are emblematic of the Faroe Islands - admire the massive, tapering rock of Tindholmur Islet and the giant sea arch of Drangarnir, which rises 70 meters into the sky. The pair of formations loom large, like guardians from Norse mythology. Behind them you can see the rising form of Mykines island, framed by the surrounding sea and cliffs. The island is home to a large colony of puffins, who are joined by other seabird species, such as Guillemots, Razorbills, Gannets, Fulmars, and Kittiwakes. The Faroe Islands have no shortage of cascading waterfalls, but Mulafossur waterfall is perhaps the most thrilling - with its narrow band of water freefalling from vertical cliffs, into Atlantic waves 30 meters below. More colorful puffins can be spotted burrowing into the nearby cliffs.

Seyðisfjörður, a beautiful 19th-century Norwegian village on the east coast of Iceland, is regarded by many as one of Iceland's most picturesque towns, not only due to its impressive environment, but also because nowhere in Iceland has a community of old wooden buildings been preserved so well as here. Poet Matthías Johannessen called Seyðisfjörður a 'pearl enclosed in a shell'. The community owes its origins to foreign merchants, mainly Danes, who started trading in the fjord in the mid-19th century. But the crucial factor in the evolution of the village was the establishment of the Icelandic herring fishery by Norwegians in 1870-1900. The Norwegians built up a number of herring-fishing facilities, and in a matter of years the little community grew into a boom town. Today, about 800 people live in Seyðisfjörður. The local economy has long been based on the fisheries, while light industry also flourishes. Tourism is playing a growing role, as the picturesque town in its spectacular surroundings attracts more and more visitors. The car/passenger ferry Norrøna, which plies between continental Europe and Iceland every summer, docks at Seyðisfjörður every Thursday. Seyðisfjörður has been a cosmopolitan community from its foundation, and the ferry service has contributed to ensuring that it remains so.

With their dazzlingly colorful beaks and smart black-and-white attire - attractive and charismatic puffins are always a delight to encounter. Iceland is home to many colonies of these adorable birds, but the 10,000 pairs that breed among the remote Borgarfjörður Eystri fjord, close to the small fishing village of Bakkagerdi, are some of the most abundant and accessible you will find. As one of the easternmost points in Iceland, it offers some of the best opportunities in the country for viewing the charming seabirds away from the crowds. Birdwatchers can also look out for nesting gulls, fulmars, and kittiwakes during their explorations. The fjord, surrounded by the Dyrfjöll Mountains, takes its name from the distinctive formation of Álfaborg, or Elf Rock. Folklore swirls in this enchantingly beautiful location, as the locals say that this hill, close to the village of Bakkagerdi, is the home of the Icelandic elf-queen. Wonderful panoramic hiking trails snake off into the surrounding landscapes and hills, and you can soak in more of the scenery of eastern Iceland from the Zodiacs. Bakkagerdi is the largest village in the Borgarfjörður Eystri fjord area - with approximately 100 residents - and the low-profile, jauntily painted houses are almost lost against the dramatic mountains and waters. The village’s most famous former resident was Iceland's renowned and beloved painter, Jóhannes Kjarval. His artwork adorns the small church’s altarpiece, which dates back to 1914.

The town of Húsavík sits below Húsavíkurfjall mountain on the eastern shore of Skjálfandi bay. Just above the town is lake Botnsvatn, a popular place for outings. The lake is just the right size for a nice hike around it. The lakes surroundings are rich in vegetation and bird life and trout is said to be abundant, though small. Húsavík harbour lies below the bank right in the heart of town. The harbour once boasted a large fishing fleet, bustling with the activity of fishermen. It still serves as a fishing harbour but today's activity revolves more around the successful whale watching businesses. The first organised whale watching excursions in Iceland started from here in 1995. Since then, whale watching has become a major attraction and Húsavík continues to be the leading destination for whale watching. In addition to the tours, a fascinating whale museum is located right by the harbour. Húsavík is considered to be the oldest settlement in Iceland. The Swedish explorer, Gardar Svavarsson, spent one winter there in 870 AD during which time he built himself a house from which the settlement derives its name.

Almost swallowed whole by the scenic embrace of Iceland's Westfjords, tiny Djupavik enjoys a starkly beautiful location, which echoes with forgotten industry. This northwestern haven is often cut off by winter's heavy snows and reachable only by a winding road, adding to the aura of distant adventure. The ceaseless murmur of Djúpavíkurfoss waterfall calls visitors ashore to a small huddle of cherry red houses trimmed in cream beside the glistening fjord waters. Set in one of the most sparsely populated regions on the island, the shore is dominated by an incongruous, sprawling factory. When built, it was the largest concrete structure in Iceland and a state-of-the-art hub of advanced automation and entrepreneurship. Now hauntingly silent, the abandoned herring factory, which dates back to 1934, serves as an eerie reminder of the once-thriving trade that sprung up in an unlikely manner in this far-flung corner of Iceland. Explore the remains, including the rusting ship that once served as a dormitory for the factory's male workers and now rests forlornly near the water. Nowadays, the factory's shell has been carefully and creatively repurposed as an evocative art gallery and hotel. Hikers can wander amid the fjord's beautiful setting, with trails offering explorations of the tumbling waterfall behind and widescreen views of the picturesque, moody Reykjarfjörður fjord scenery below.

Discover northern Iceland's fantastic, outlying beauty as you cruise the majestic Veidileysufjörður. Nestled away in the scenic Westfjords, relatively few visitors reach this secluded area. Veidileysufjörður's serene isolation makes it an ideal locale for reveling in Iceland's grandiose natural glory, and you can admire views of snow-capped peaks contrasting sharply against the deep navy-blue hues of the North Atlantic. At the fjord’s terminus, a burbling waterfall tumbles its way leisurely down the emerald hillside from above. The pristine fjord is also a place to look out for Iceland's incredible marine life; during summer, humpback whales and playful seals often frequent its inky waters. Soak in the silence and serenity, punctuated only by the calls of seabirds like Black-legged Kittiwakes and Common Guillemots, which swoop above the water's surface, their calls echoing across the still waters.

Iceland is well-known for its spectacular waterfalls. The iconic Dynjandi waterfall, located in the Westfjords region, is regarded as one of Iceland’s most impressive and majestic waterfalls. At the top, the cascading water is roughly 100 feet wide and tumbles down about 330 feet into the fjord. Its name Dynjandi means, “the thundering one” and its vast size, enormous sound, and sheer force is overwhelming. It has also been nicknamed, ‘The Bridal Veil’ because of the way the water sprays and spreads over the rocks.

Sprawling Reykjavík, the nation's nerve center and government seat, is home to half the island's population. On a bay overlooked by proud Mt. Esja (pronounced eh-shyuh), with its ever-changing hues, Reykjavík presents a colorful sight, its concrete houses painted in light colors and topped by vibrant red, blue, and green roofs. In contrast to the almost treeless countryside, Reykjavík has many tall, native birches, rowans, and willows, as well as imported aspen, pines, and spruces.Reykjavík's name comes from the Icelandic words for smoke, reykur, and bay, vík. In AD 874, Norseman Ingólfur Arnarson saw Iceland rising out of the misty sea and came ashore at a bay eerily shrouded with plumes of steam from nearby hot springs. Today most of the houses in Reykjavík are heated by near-boiling water from the hot springs. Natural heating avoids air pollution; there's no smoke around. You may notice, however, that the hot water brings a slight sulfur smell to the bathroom.Prices are easily on a par with other major European cities. A practical option is to purchase a Reykjavík City Card at the Tourist Information Center or at the Reykjavík Youth Hostel. This card permits unlimited bus usage and admission to any of the city's seven pools, the Family Park and Zoo, and city museums. The cards are valid for one (ISK 3,300), two (ISK 4,400), or three days (ISK 4,900), and they pay for themselves after three or four uses a day. Even lacking the City Card, paying admission (ISK 500, or ISK 250 for seniors and people with disabilities) to one of the city art museums (Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir, or Ásmundarsafn) gets you free same-day admission to the other two.