Nuuk to Reykjavik

In the bustling capital city of Greenland, you could be forgiven for forgetting you are in such a vast and isolated country. Nuuk is Greenland's economic and social hub, home to more than a third of Greenland's population, and although it feels like a world capital, scratch the surface, and a uniquely Greenlandic character can be found underneath. Nuuk Cathedral overlooks the gorgeous old Colonial Harbour district and the Greenland National Museum, resting place of the legendary Qilakitsoq mummies, the true highlight of the museum's archaeological collection. Above the Colonial Harbour sits downtown Nuuk, with lines of Scandistyle apartments, a bustling shopping district, the Greenlandic Parliament, Nuuk City Hall (which welcomes visitors to see its artwork), and even outdoor cafes selling locally produced food and beer. These nods to modernity compete for space with local artisan boutiques, the meat market selling the catch from Nuuk's vast fjord-lands, and the stunning Katuaq Cultural Centre, where blockbuster movies, as well as local and foreign performers, entertain the people of Nuuk. Although Nuuk has long been a melting pot of Danish and Greenlandic ideas, this is a city where Greenland displays its sophistication, with the Country's only traffic lights, roundabouts, and University. Most of all, expect to find a multitude of friendly people who are proud of who they are, and equally proud of the city they call home.

Perched on the seaside in the shadow of ice-capped Sermitsiaq Mountain, Nuuk is the world’s smallest capital city by population, with some 19,000 inhabitants experiencing tremendous cultural and economic growth. Watch for harp seals as you enter the harbor, and hear from local residents to learn how the community has changed over the generations. At the National Museum, examine the extraordinary 15th-century Qilakitsoq mummies found near Uummannaq—a discovery that was featured in a National Geographic magazine cover story in 1985. The Arctic ice preserved these mummies so well that researchers have been able to study their tattoos, their medical conditions and even what they ate.

Located in the central part of Greenland’s western coast, Maniitsoq is Greenland’s sixth-largest town, and home to less than 2,700 inhabitants. The main attractions are the small museum and old cemetery at the northern end of town. At the community hall local artists and artisans usually exhibit some of their carvings and beadwork. The beadwork pieces are not created just as souvenirs for visitors - the national dress of the West-Greenlandic women uses an elaborately beaded collar. Fishing trips and even heli-skiing on nearby mountains are considered Maniitsoq’s other assets. Its local name (meaning "place of rugged terrain") contrasts somewhat with the name given by the Danish in 1782 ("New Sugarloaf").

Located in the central part of Greenland’s western coast, Maniitsoq is Greenland’s sixth-largest town, and home to less than 2,700 inhabitants. The main attractions are the small museum and old cemetery at the northern end of town. At the community hall local artists and artisans usually exhibit some of their carvings and beadwork. The beadwork pieces are not created just as souvenirs for visitors - the national dress of the West-Greenlandic women uses an elaborately beaded collar. Fishing trips and even heli-skiing on nearby mountains are considered Maniitsoq’s other assets. Its local name (meaning "place of rugged terrain") contrasts somewhat with the name given by the Danish in 1782 ("New Sugarloaf").

During the morning Silver Cloud will ply the Disko Bay en route to our destination along Disko Island’s east coast. Our exploration of the Disko Bay area will head to an area north of the village of Qeqertarsuaq, which is named after Disko Island’s local name –meaning “large island”. With more than 3,300 sq. miles Disko Island is Greenland’s second-largest island.

Qeqertarsuaq is the largest town on Disko Island, Greenland's largest island, on its west coast, part of Disko Bay, a UNESCO-listed site for its icebergs. The Lyngemark Glacier rises above the town. The area’s hills, basalt columns and black sand beaches reflect its volcanic origin. The area is fertile and home to species not found elsewhere in Greenland. Keep an eye out for its hot springs as we move through floating icebergs.

Scattering chunks of sea ice like confetti, Eqip Sermia Glacier’s 2-mile-wide wall of ice is alive with thrilling activity. Known as the Calving Glacier, this immense formation towers up to 550 feet above the surface. Cracks and rumbles echo through the air from Eqip Sermia Glacier, one of the most active in the Northern Hemisphere. Enjoy the show, as dramatic collapses send mini-icebergs tumbling across the surface and the ship rolls gently on the ensuing waves. Explore this incredible glacier up close, immersed in pure silence, with only the calls of seabirds and the murmurings of the ice breaking the quiet. Eqip Sermia Glacier is retreating quickly, and this rapid movement drives the frequency of its calving events. Found at the terminus of Eqi Fjord, the compacted flow of ancient ice mass spills down through black and white mountains from its roots in the Greenland Ice Sheet - the second-largest body of ice in the world after Antarctica, covering 80% of the island. The deep blues and turquoise hues are caused by centuries of compression. Icy sculptures from Eqip Sermia Glacier and nearby Jakobshavn Glacier and Kangilerngata Sermia Glacier drift toward Disko Bay, where fin, humpback, and minke whales breach and roll through the lively waters.

Scattering chunks of sea ice like confetti, Eqip Sermia Glacier’s 2-mile-wide wall of ice is alive with thrilling activity. Known as the Calving Glacier, this immense formation towers up to 550 feet above the surface. Cracks and rumbles echo through the air from Eqip Sermia Glacier, one of the most active in the Northern Hemisphere. Enjoy the show, as dramatic collapses send mini-icebergs tumbling across the surface and the ship rolls gently on the ensuing waves. Explore this incredible glacier up close, immersed in pure silence, with only the calls of seabirds and the murmurings of the ice breaking the quiet. Eqip Sermia Glacier is retreating quickly, and this rapid movement drives the frequency of its calving events. Found at the terminus of Eqi Fjord, the compacted flow of ancient ice mass spills down through black and white mountains from its roots in the Greenland Ice Sheet - the second-largest body of ice in the world after Antarctica, covering 80% of the island. The deep blues and turquoise hues are caused by centuries of compression. Icy sculptures from Eqip Sermia Glacier and nearby Jakobshavn Glacier and Kangilerngata Sermia Glacier drift toward Disko Bay, where fin, humpback, and minke whales breach and roll through the lively waters.

Known as the birthplace of icebergs, the Ilulissat Icefjord produces nearly 20 million tons of ice each day. In fact, the word Ilulissat means “icebergs” in the Kalaallisut language. The town of Ilulissat is known for its long periods of calm and settled weather, but the climate tends to be cold due to its proximity to the fjord. Approximately 4,500 people live in Ilulissat, the third-largest town in Greenland after Nuuk and Sisimiut. Some people here estimate that there are nearly as many sled dogs as human beings living in the town that also boasts a local history museum located in the former home of Greenlandic folk hero and famed polar explorer Knud Rasmussen.

Known as the birthplace of icebergs, the Ilulissat Icefjord produces nearly 20 million tons of ice each day. In fact, the word Ilulissat means “icebergs” in the Kalaallisut language. The town of Ilulissat is known for its long periods of calm and settled weather, but the climate tends to be cold due to its proximity to the fjord. Approximately 4,500 people live in Ilulissat, the third-largest town in Greenland after Nuuk and Sisimiut. Some people here estimate that there are nearly as many sled dogs as human beings living in the town that also boasts a local history museum located in the former home of Greenlandic folk hero and famed polar explorer Knud Rasmussen.

Sisimiut ("The People of the Fox Holes") is Greenland's second city, the largest Arctic City in North America, and a hub between the warmer South and the frozen North of the country. With a young, dynamic population, including students from all over the country, Sisimiut is one of the fastest-growing cities in Greenland. Inhabited for more than four and a half thousand years, the Danish Colonial Era saw the rapid development of the city into a trade center, and the old buildings and artifacts can be seen at Sisimiut Museum, a collection of beautifully restored buildings displaying everything from ancient turf houses to modern Inuit art. The local artisans are considered some of the best in Greenland and often sell their wares direct from their communal workshop in the harbor, where they barter with hunters for raw materials. Today, modern industry focuses on processing seafood and shipping; KNI, the state-run chain of general stores operating in even the most remote settlements is based in Sisimiut. Most residents still live in the colorful wooden houses Greenland is so well known for. Sisimiut's vast backcountry offers excellent opportunities for hiking and fishing, and the locals often use sled dogs or snowmobiles to get around their vast mountainous playground during the long winters. In the summer, one can walk as far as Kangerlussuaq International Airport, a trail also used for the grueling Polar Circle Marathon, one of the toughest endurance events in the world.

Located just north of the Arctic Circle, Sisimiut is the northernmost town in Greenland where the port remains free of ice in the winter. Yet it is also the southernmost town where there is enough snow and ice to drive a dogsled in winter and spring. In Sisimiut, travelling by sled has been the primary means of winter transportation for centuries. In fact, the area has been inhabited for approximately 4,500 years. Modern Sisimiut is the largest business center in the north of Greenland, and is one of the fastest growing Greenlandic cities. Commercial fishing is the lead economy in the town‘s thriving industrial base.

Sail into Amerloq Fjord, an evocative waterway, immersed in a protected landscape of soaring mountains, arctic wilderness, and deep fjords. Located in western Greenland’s Qeqqata municipality, this scenic fjord lies above the Arctic Circle, with its waters flowing out into the Davis Strait. Along the rocky shores, hiking trails meander by the water’s edge, and whales can occasionally be spotted in the calm waters. Huddled over the fjord’s entrance is the cheerily painted town of Sisimiut, Greenland's second-biggest settlement. While cruising along 25 miles of fjord waters, you’ll also encounter Assaqutaq - a ghostly village that was abandoned and left to ruin in 1970. Some of the fading wooden buildings have recently had new life breathed into them for educational purposes. Sail the calm waters to reach Sarfannguit, a beautiful fishing village consisting of an assortment of small wooden houses popping with bright colors against the moody landscape. Located on an island between two fjords, Sarfannguit forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in 2018 to preserve the cultural and historical legacy of the Inuit. For more than 4,200 years, the Inuit have hunted and fished in these landscapes, maintaining a deep connection to the land and sea. Today, you can visit the approximately 100 residents who live in Sarfannguit to learn of their heritage, as the barks of their excited sled dogs echo over the waters.

Sail into Amerloq Fjord, an evocative waterway, immersed in a protected landscape of soaring mountains, arctic wilderness, and deep fjords. Located in western Greenland’s Qeqqata municipality, this scenic fjord lies above the Arctic Circle, with its waters flowing out into the Davis Strait. Along the rocky shores, hiking trails meander by the water’s edge, and whales can occasionally be spotted in the calm waters. Huddled over the fjord’s entrance is the cheerily painted town of Sisimiut, Greenland's second-biggest settlement. While cruising along 25 miles of fjord waters, you’ll also encounter Assaqutaq - a ghostly village that was abandoned and left to ruin in 1970. Some of the fading wooden buildings have recently had new life breathed into them for educational purposes. Sail the calm waters to reach Sarfannguit, a beautiful fishing village consisting of an assortment of small wooden houses popping with bright colors against the moody landscape. Located on an island between two fjords, Sarfannguit forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in 2018 to preserve the cultural and historical legacy of the Inuit. For more than 4,200 years, the Inuit have hunted and fished in these landscapes, maintaining a deep connection to the land and sea. Today, you can visit the approximately 100 residents who live in Sarfannguit to learn of their heritage, as the barks of their excited sled dogs echo over the waters.

Evighedsfjord (Eternity Fjord) is a large fjord northeast of Kangaamiut in southwest Greenland. The fjord has a length of 75 kilometers and several branches with numerous glaciers coming down from the Maniitsoq Ice Cap to the north can be seen. The Evighedsfjord has several bends and whenever the ship reaches the supposed end the fjord continues in another direction and seems to go on forever. Qingua Kujatdleq Glacier is at its southeastern end. At the northwestern end, a U-shaped valley has seven glaciers coming down from the mountains but not reaching the water. The glaciers had their maximum extent around the year 1870 and have gone through several cycles of advance and retreat. The mountains on either side of the fjord can reach in excess of 2,000 meters and the fjord has a depth of up to 700 meters. Evighedsfjord’s snowline is at 1,100 meters and the Evighedsfjord region is famous as one of Greenland’s best heli-skiing areas.

Paamiut, in southwestern Greenland, is definitely an off-the-beaten-track destination but well worth the journey! The brightly colored houses dotted around the port bring warmth to the arctic scenery. The history of the community dates back to 1500 BC but it was in the 18th Century that Paamiut evolved into a major trading hub within Greenland. Seal fur, whale products, and soapstone carving made it prosperous. Today the draw is the opportunity to immerse yourself in such an unspoiled, majestic landscape and to observe the rare wildlife within. During the warmer summer months, minke whales, fin whales, and humped back whales are all common visitors and with sharp eyes, can be seen from the shore. Craggy mountains, ethereal glaciers, and clear fjords offer endless possibilities for hiking and kayaking. Rare sea eagles - Nattoralik, have made their home in these remote parts, and seeing one is said to bring you good luck. Guardians of this incredible natural legacy are the Paamiut people who are justifiably proud of their culture and extremely welcoming to visitors. There is a small museum where you can learn about the fascinating local customs, traditions, and way of life.

A small town with a tiny population, Paamiut’s residents are friendly and welcoming. The town’s local museum is working to restore its 11 historic buildings, including the wooden stave church that was built in 1909. Traditional peat houses can also be explored to gain a glimpse into life here when the early Inuit settlers arrived; they were used to shelter from the extreme winter conditions. Paamiut is also home to the largest population of white-tailed eagles. Majestic in flight, their prowess is a celebrated symbol with youth teams sporting the bird as a lucky mascot.

18 kilometers northeast of Qaqortoq, Hvalsey is part of Qaqortukulooq, one of the five sites of the UNESCO World Heritage Arctic farming complex Kujataa. Between Eriksfjord to the north and Einarsfjord to the south, the Hvalseyfjord branches off from Einarsfjord. Although Hvalsey is better known for the well-preserved ruins of one of the sixteen churches in the Norse’s Eastern Settlement, the church was in a farmstead known as Thjodhild’s Stead. This farmstead at the northeastern end of the fjord included a large building with living quarters, a hall, and livestock pens, as well as other livestock pens, a storage building, and a warehouse - the ruins of which can still be seen. The Norse farming laid the foundation for the Inuit farming in later centuries, leading to the UNESCO World Heritage status in 2017. In the 14th century account “Descriptions of Greenland” the abundant fish, a reindeer farm on Reindeer Island, and Hvalsey’s name “Whale Island” clearly indicate that the Norse had ample food sources at that time. The church was built in the Anglo-Norwegian style of the 13th century, but is known to have been built over an older graveyard. The farmstead is mentioned in the Icelandic “Book of Settlements” as property of the Kings of Norway, and the last documented event of the Norse in Greenland is a wedding, which took place in the church in September 1408. After almost 600 years of abandonment, conservation work had to be done to prevent the seaward wall from collapsing.

Northeast of Qaqortoq and at the end of a fjord, Hvalsey is one of the best examples of South Greenland’s many scattered ruins from the Norse period. Today the area is used for sheep-grazing, but until the 15th century the settlement at Hvalsey, and specifically Hvalsey’s church, played an important part. Christianity had spread its influence throughout Europe and eventually had reached remote Greenland, where it established itself in the country in 1000 AD. Hvalsey Church was built in the 14th century and is the best preserved of the churches in Greenland from that period. Apart from the church walls, historical ruins from the time of the Norse are just a few meters away.

Considered one of the Ten Wonders of the Arctic, Tassermiut Fjord is a 70-kilometer (44-mile) incision into the pristine wilderness of southwestern Greenland. The fjord is entered near the settlement of Nanortalik (population 1,200) and winds its way through scenery that is reminiscent of the dramatic mountain landscape of Patagonia.
Cruising up the fjord by ship reveals a spectacular panorama of jagged peaks perched atop steep-sided mountains, interspersed with u-shaped side valleys and moraines - all clear indications of glacial action. The lower slopes are green with lush vegetation but quickly rise to barren walls of rock. These sheer walls make Tassermiut Fjord a Mecca for rock climbers, who rate such climbs as Uiluit Qaaqa (Ketil), Ulamertorsuaq (Uli), and The Baroness as being some of the best in the world. For the less active among us, just processing and comprehending the vista itself seems challenging enough.
The Tassermiut Fjord region has always attracted people. Inuit made hunting camps around the fjord mouth to target the ringed, harp, and bearded seals that are abundant when the pack ice drifts in. The Norse too, settled the area in the 10th century, drawn no doubt to the valleys that promised fertile grazing for their precious livestock. They were also perhaps drawn to the astounding natural beauty of the region, as if it was blessed by divine hand, something that is readily apparent to the eager traveler that makes it to this little-explored corner of Greenland.

Considered one of the Ten Wonders of the Arctic, Tassermiut Fjord is a 70-kilometer (44-mile) incision into the pristine wilderness of southwestern Greenland. The fjord is entered near the settlement of Nanortalik (population 1,200) and winds its way through scenery that is reminiscent of the dramatic mountain landscape of Patagonia.
Cruising up the fjord by ship reveals a spectacular panorama of jagged peaks perched atop steep-sided mountains, interspersed with u-shaped side valleys and moraines - all clear indications of glacial action. The lower slopes are green with lush vegetation but quickly rise to barren walls of rock. These sheer walls make Tassermiut Fjord a Mecca for rock climbers, who rate such climbs as Uiluit Qaaqa (Ketil), Ulamertorsuaq (Uli), and The Baroness as being some of the best in the world. For the less active among us, just processing and comprehending the vista itself seems challenging enough.
The Tassermiut Fjord region has always attracted people. Inuit made hunting camps around the fjord mouth to target the ringed, harp, and bearded seals that are abundant when the pack ice drifts in. The Norse too, settled the area in the 10th century, drawn no doubt to the valleys that promised fertile grazing for their precious livestock. They were also perhaps drawn to the astounding natural beauty of the region, as if it was blessed by divine hand, something that is readily apparent to the eager traveler that makes it to this little-explored corner of Greenland.

The transit through the Sound is one of this voyage’s highlights. Connecting the Labrador Sea with the Irminger Seat, Prince Christian Sound - or “Prins Christian Sund” in Danish - is named after Prince (later King) Christian VII (1749-1808). 100 km (60 miles), long and at times just 500 meters (1,500 feet) wide, this majestic and spectacular fiord throws you back into a Viking era – flanked by soaring snow-topped mountains, rock-strewn cliffs, and rolling hills, it is as if time has stood still and one easily forgets that this is the 21st century. As you marvel at the sheer size of the mountains that surround you, with the Arctic waters lapping deceptively at the hull, revel in the silence enveloping you. Icebergs float serenely by, carrying with them the ages of time. Be sure to wear warm clothing as this is one spectacle that you do not want to miss.

The transit through the Sound is one of this voyage’s highlights. Connecting the Labrador Sea with the Irminger Seat, Prince Christian Sound or “Prins Christian Sund” in Danish is named after Prince (later King) Christian VII (1749-1808). 100 km (60 miles ), long and at times just 500 m (1500 ft) wide, this majestic and spectacular fiord throws you back into a Viking era – flanked by soaring snow-topped mountains, rock-strewn cliffs and rolling hills, it is as if time has stood still and one easily forgets that this is the 21st century. As you marvel at the sheer size of the mountains that surround you, with the Arctic waters lapping deceptively at the hull, revel in the silence enveloping you. Icebergs float serenely by, carrying with them the ages of time. Be sure to wear warm clothing as this is one spectacle that you do not want to miss.

Days at sea are the perfect opportunity to relax, unwind, and catch up with what you've been meaning to do. So whether that is going to the gym, visiting the spa, whale-watching, catching up on your reading, or simply topping up your tan, these blue sea days are the perfect balance to busy days spent exploring shoreside.

The name Vestmannaeyjar refers to both a town and an archipelago off the south coast of Iceland. The largest Vestmannaeyjar island is called Heimaey. It is the only inhabited island in the group and is home to over 4,000 people. The eruption of the Eldfell Volcano put Vestmannaeyjar into the international lime light in 1973. The volcano’s eruption destroyed many buildings and forced an evacuation of the residents to mainland Iceland. The lava flow was stopped in its tracks by the application of billions of liters of cold sea water. Since the eruption, life on the small island outpost has returned to the natural ebb and flow of a small coastal fishing community on the edge of the chilly and wild North Atlantic.

The name Vestmannaeyjar refers to both a town and an archipelago off the south coast of Iceland. The largest Vestmannaeyjar island is called Heimaey. It is the only inhabited island in the group and is home to over 4000 people. The eruption of the Eldfell Volcano put Vestmannaeyjar into the international lime light in 1973. The volcano’s eruption destroyed many buildings and forced an evacuation of the residents to mainland Iceland. The lava flow was stopped in its tracks by the application of billions of liters of cold sea water. Since the eruption, life on the small island outpost has returned to the natural ebb and flow of a small coastal fishing community on the edge of the chilly and wild North Atlantic.

The capital of Iceland's land of ice, fire, and natural wonder, Reykjavik is a city like no other - blossoming among some of the world's most vibrant and violent scenery. Home to two-thirds of Iceland's population, Reykjavik is the island's only real city, and a welcoming and walkable place - full of bicycles gliding along boulevards or battling the wind when it rears up. Fresh licks of paint brighten the streets, and an artistic and creative atmosphere embraces studios and galleries - as well as the kitchens where an exciting culinary scene is burgeoning. Plot your adventures in the city's hip bars and cozy cafes, or waste no time in venturing out to Iceland's outdoor adventures. Reykjavik's buildings stand together - below the whip of winter's winds - together with the magnificent Hallgrímskirkja church, with its bell tower rising resolutely over the city. Iceland's largest church's design echoes the lava flows that have shaped this remote land and boasts a clean and elegant interior. The Harpa Concert Hall's sheer glass facade helps it to assimilate into the landscape, mirroring back the city and harbor. Its LED lights shimmer in honor of Iceland's greatest illuminated performance - the northern lights. Walk in the crusts between continents, feel the spray from bursts of geysers, and witness the enduring power of Iceland's massive waterfalls. Whether you want to sizzle away in the earth-heated geothermal pools or hike to your heart's content, you can do it all from Reykjavik - the colorful capital of this astonishing outdoor country.

Sprawling Reykjavík, the nation's nerve center and government seat, is home to half the island's population. On a bay overlooked by proud Mt. Esja (pronounced eh-shyuh), with its ever-changing hues, Reykjavík presents a colorful sight, its concrete houses painted in light colors and topped by vibrant red, blue, and green roofs. In contrast to the almost treeless countryside, Reykjavík has many tall, native birches, rowans, and willows, as well as imported aspen, pines, and spruces.Reykjavík's name comes from the Icelandic words for smoke, reykur, and bay, vík. In AD 874, Norseman Ingólfur Arnarson saw Iceland rising out of the misty sea and came ashore at a bay eerily shrouded with plumes of steam from nearby hot springs. Today most of the houses in Reykjavík are heated by near-boiling water from the hot springs. Natural heating avoids air pollution; there's no smoke around. You may notice, however, that the hot water brings a slight sulfur smell to the bathroom.Prices are easily on a par with other major European cities. A practical option is to purchase a Reykjavík City Card at the Tourist Information Center or at the Reykjavík Youth Hostel. This card permits unlimited bus usage and admission to any of the city's seven pools, the Family Park and Zoo, and city museums. The cards are valid for one (ISK 3,300), two (ISK 4,400), or three days (ISK 4,900), and they pay for themselves after three or four uses a day. Even lacking the City Card, paying admission (ISK 500, or ISK 250 for seniors and people with disabilities) to one of the city art museums (Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir, or Ásmundarsafn) gets you free same-day admission to the other two.