We visit Qaqortoq, the largest town in South Greenland with a population of around 3200. Qaqortoq is beautifully situated on a mountainside and surrounded by magnificent fjords. This part of Greenland has many stories to tell. We learn about the Inuit culture and their great respect and symbiotic relationship with the environment and animals. Many of the stories originate from times of great weather changes and declining animal numbers, and they used objects from hunting and fishing to create artistic objects and amulets. There is great respect and love for animals, which are sacrificed, and the sea goddess Sedna is worshipped for releasing the souls of animals. Even today, the Inuit carry a small jug of fresh water with them when they hunt seals. After killing a seal, they give it fresh water to keep its soul from going thirsty. We will have the opportunity to hear many stories and legends, and to learn about different eras and the people who have migrated to Greenland.
This part of Greenland offers much more than history and culture. We will set foot on rarely visited islands and watch for playful whales. We also hope to visit one of the many sheep farms in southern Greenland. In Uunartoq we will have the opportunity to relax in one of the natural hot springs, while admiring the breathtaking views of mountain ranges and drifting icebergs.
We sail out through Eriksfjord, named after Erik the Red, a Norse explorer believed to have founded the first settlement in Greenland around year 980, after being banished from Iceland for manslaughter. We plan to go ashore at Brattahlid, the estate he established at the end of the 10th century.
We also aim to visit Hvalsey Church, one of the best-preserved Norse ruins in Greenland.
We then continue our journey south. Through the western mouth of Prince Christian Sound, we slowly make our way into this extraordinary fjord system. Here we are surrounded by a mountainous landscape with peaks of up to 2000 metres and steep cliffs plunging into the fjord, and we see the similarity to the fictional landscape of Mordor from Lord of the Rings. We look out for harbour seals, ringed seals and whales.
We have now reached East Greenland and are travelling along a wild and unspoilt coastline. We are very dependent on the weather and ice conditions, and our itinerary will be adapted accordingly. A couple of days will be spent mostly at sea. We are likely to see a parade of icebergs drifting south on the strong currents, and we marvel at mighty glacier walls plunging straight into the sea. Along the coast we hope to explore one of the rarely visited fjords. Perhaps we stop at Umivik Bay, from where Fridtjof Nansen began his East to West trek across Greenland in 1888.
When we arrive in the vast Sermilik fjord system, we are greeted by icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Most of these come from the Helheim glacier in the centre of the fjord, which produces some of the largest icebergs in Greenland. Sermilik Fjord is 90 kilometres long and cuts through a rugged landscape of towering glaciers and jagged peaks. The beauty around us is stunning! We anchor in beautiful spots and keep an eye out for whales. Perhaps the ice will let us through to the small village of Tiilerilaaq. The wooden houses are beautifully situated, with the great Sermilik Fjord in the background. Here the local Inuit culture and traditional hunting and fishing activities play an important role in the way of life. Here we have the chance to go on a nice hike to get an overview of the Sermilik Fjord and its icebergs!
We visit the town of Tasiilaq. With a population of just under 2000 it is the largest settlement in East Greenland. There is an older and different Inuit culture here, where shamanism and indigenous culture are much more alive than in other parts of Greenland. During our expedition here we will learn more about local myths and legends, such as that of the Tupilaqs. In Greenlandic Inuit religion, a tupilaq was a vengeful monster created by a witch doctor using various objects such as animal bones, skin, hair or tendons. Tasiilaq is also known for its art scene, where local artists create prints, sculptures and textiles, usually depicting animals, landscapes and traditional stories from the region.
