Exploring the High Arctic: My 16-Day Svalbard Expedition with Aurora
I just got back from a sixteen day expedition cruise circumnavigating Spitsbergen with Aurora Expeditions. Having that much time in the Arctic meant we didn't have to rush from one place to another, and it allowed us to explore more of Spitsbergen.
Wildlife
Most of us travel to Svalbard in hopes for a polar bear sighting in the wild.
We were very fortunate to see polar bears on two separate days! One time, we had a polar bear walking across the sea ice and got very close to our ship before swimming away.
Personally, polar bears weren't on the top of my list of wildlife before going on this expedition. For me, it was whales before polar bears. I was not disappointed ! Lucky us, we sighted Minke whales on 3 different days, Beluga whales on 2 different days and the extremely rare sighting of a bowhead whale on one of the days.
Besides polar bears and whales, we saw walruses hauled out on beaches, walruses swimming close to us during our zodiac cruises, a family of arctic foxes with its pups playing, seals resting on ice floes, and thousands of seabirds nesting in Alkefjellet. Of course, there were also the Svalbard reindeer on our hikes. We also saw dinosaur fossils. Scientists have discovered about 36 prints in the area but only 2-3 were visible enough.
Photographer: Tom Gehrels
Experiencing the pack ice
One of the biggest highlights for me was spending two full days in the pack ice and doing an ice landing on the second day! The first morning of sailing into the pack ice, I was woken up by the cackling sound of the ship moving gently through the ice. Just watching the ship move through the ice from the bow was such a unique and peaceful experience .
On this voyage, we reached our furthest point north at 81°39' North. As we began making our way south, we were surprised with a polar plunge , entirely voluntary of course!
Life on board
The Sylvia Earle can hold up to 130 guests. There were only 72 of us on board during my trip. This really helped create a friendly environment and made it very easy to get to know both the Expedition Team and other guests. There were 18 members on the Expedition Team with us. This meant that the ratio of guests to the Expedition Team was about 1:4!
Our daily routine starts with a morning wake up call from our Expedition leader Rune, followed by breakfast then announcements by Samantha for calls to the mud room. This was either for a hike/shore landing or zodiac cruising. After the morning activity, we'd return to the ship for lunch and a bit of R&R while sailing to our next destination. Many of us would gather on Deck 8 with the Expedition Team and other guests, binoculars in hand, hoping to spot whales, seals or other wildlife.
By around 3 pm, it was time for our second call to the mudroom. Most days, we would have a Zodiac cruise in the morning and a shore landing in the afternoon, or the other way around.
Dinner was at 7 pm after our daily debrief and recap of the day. After dinner, many of us find ourselves back on deck 8, chatting, enjoying the midnight sun and of course wildlife spotting!
Expedition Team
The Expedition Team made a huge difference during the trip. Their knowledge, enthusiasm and genuine excitement to share what they know added so much to our Zodiac cruises and hikes.
One example that stood out was during one of our Zodiac cruises, when all the Zodiacs gathered together and Ben, the geologist on the Expedition Team', gave us a talk about the rock formations around us. Instead of simply admiring the scenery, we learned how these mountains and cliffs were formed over millions of years. It was a great reminder that expedition cruising isn't just about seeing a place, it's also about learning and understanding it too.
We were told that we were actually very lucky with the weather during our voyage. Apart from one or two days of fog, we had mostly clear skies and good visibility throughout the trip. In the Arctic, you can never really predict the conditions, so having such good weather meant we were able to make the most of our time outside with two activities every day!
Photographer: Tom Gehrels
Final Thoughts
As incredible as the wildlife sightings were, it was the landscape that left me in awe. It's hard not to feel incredibly small when you're surrounded by towering mountains, vast fjords, and ancient glaciers. I loved the quietness and just how remote the Arctic felt. Sleeping with my balcony door slightly ajar, falling asleep to the sound of the waves, and feeling the crisp Arctic air drift into my cabin was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.
I was also fortunate to meet so many wonderful people, each with their own stories and experiences to share. Spending sixteen days together created friendships and memories that made the voyage even more special.
As we explored Svalbard, the Expedition Team shared stories of the archipelago's whaling past, early explorers, and abandoned mining settlements. I really enjoyed learning about the history behind the places we visited. It was a reminder that Svalbard is not just about the wildlife and landscapes, but also about the people who have been part of its story.
It's hard to capture the true scale of Svalbard in photos. No picture can quite convey what it feels like to stand in front of a towering glacier or be completely surrounded by mountains. Having sixteen days to explore meant we never felt rushed. Instead, we had the time to slow down, immerse ourselves in the destination, and appreciate every moment. I wouldn't have wanted to experience Svalbard any other way.
Svalbard isn't just a place you visit—it's a place you experience.
Thank you to Aurora Expeditions and Anthony Iozzia for the opportunity to experience Svalbard aboard the Sylvia Earle. As always, the thoughts and impressions shared in this article are my own.
Photographer: Adrian Wlodarczyk
